Some countries market their national cuisines better than others. France has branded its cuisine as the gold standard of fine dining. Indian food has spread across the western world as a small selection of curries, adjusted for the more sensitive palate. And Mexican food has made its way onto our plates primarily as affordable, comforting fast food. But Mexican chefs are part of a global movement of chefs working to elevate their grandmothers' recipes to the level of haute cuisine. 

Mexico City may be the number one fine dining destination in the country, but Oaxaca is arguably its equal. Pronounced wah-hah-cah, like the UK restaurant chain, Oaxaca is the capital of the state of the same name. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with charming cobbled walkways, colonial architecture and a host of pre-Hispanic archaeological sites. The surrounding landscape is like something out of an old western film, with tall, forked cacti leaving long shadows across the ochre earth. Except for the last days of October, when the town is overwhelmed by colourful celebrations for the Day of The Dead, it's a friendly, sleepy place with a strong sense of community and a culture of aritsanal craft. 

Oaxaca is making a name for itself as a foodie destination with laidback rooftop bars serving mezcal cocktails, trendy cafes offering local, freshly ground coffee (with an alarming choice of brewing methods) and several excellent fine dining restaurants.

Mexican cuisine may be about far more than tacos, but it must be said that the taco is a central, maybe even sacred, part of Mexican culture. It's right up on the highest platform alongside Frida Kahlo and lucha libre. Fresh tortillas, pressed and cooked while you wait, are a far cry from the sanitized, preserved type we eat over here and form the basis for many street food dishes. Soft tortillas are folded to made quesadillas which are often filled with cheese and delicate squash blossom. 

Tlayudas are crispy baked tortillas covered in dark mole, stringy Oaxacan cheese and a choice of toppings much like a pizza. 

Tostadas, similar but smaller crispy tortillas, are light snacks, usually topped with ceviche, slices of avocado or juicy pork. 

Other popular street foods include tamales (steamed corn dough wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves), elotes (corn on the cob covered in mayonnaise, white cheese, chili and lime) and churros.  We tried all sorts of interesting things on Urban Adventures' Original Markets and Street Food tour.

They may not appear among the cast of characters in Academy Award-winning films Coco and Roma, but there are plenty of hipsters in Mexico. In fact, the Roma neighbourhood in Mexico City, which is the location for the film of the same name, is a hub for arty boutiques and people who commute on electric scooters summoned by an app. It's also an excellent area for interesting dining opportunities. 

Masala y Maiz was once just a window from the family kitchen where chefs and couple Listman and Keval handed out doughnuts and coffee to customers from the neighbourhood. It's easy to imagine these origins, sitting at the long central table in the peaceful, converted garage that serves as the restaurant. The menu is filled with delicious dishes that represent a fusion of the couple's Mexican, Indian and East African origins. Think corn pancakes with local fruits and a mug of spiced chai or cardamom sweet potatoes with masala fried chicken.

You've heard of (and possibly have regrets about) tequila, but what on earth is mezcal? Tequila is to mezcal as Champagne is to sparkling wine, in that it's a particular variety of mezcal from the region Tequila. Mezcal is distilled from the agave plant which is a kind of succulent. Much like wine, mezcal varies hugely depending on where it is grown, the varietal of plant it is grown from and the distilling process. It's a tricky business because agave does not grow well in a farming environment so it is largely gathered from the wild. Mezcal can be sweet or bitter, cloudy or clear, strong or weak and, unlike an ill-advised tequila shot at the tail-end of an evening, it is consumed in sips and enjoyed by connosieurs. Mezcal can also be used in cocktails, perfect for a lazy afternoon at a Oaxacan roof bar or on a beach on the Riviera Maya. 

If you find yourself exhausted by the beautiful colonial towns, fascinating archaeological sites and extraordinary landscapes of Mexico, it's a good idea to recover on the Carribbean coast. The resorts along the Riviera Maya and around Cancun offer excellent value all-inclusive packages, an array of facilities and more or less year-round sunshine. We stayed at the Secrets Akumal and spent most of our time reclining on beach loungers or snorkeling with the resident sea turtles. We did somehow find the time to squeeze in some meals at the hotels' many restaurants.

Anywhere on the coast in Mexico you can enjoy fresh seafood dishes like soft shell crab tacos, ceviche and octopus salad. Or, if you're all tacoed out, you can dine out in any one of the international restaurants at your resort.