Head to the north of Vietnam and you’ll discover the labyrinthine streets of Hanoi’s old quarter, the rolling rice terraces of the highlands and the impossibly vertiginous islands of Halong Bay. The north lays claim to Vietnam’s oldest tribes and cultures, and this is reflected in the traditional villages, the ancient architecture, and of course, the food.
Born from the cradle of Vietnam, northern cuisine is often thought of as some of the more ‘authentically Vietnamese’, such as traditionally balanced bowls of steaming phở (noodle soup) . Boasting a cooler climate than central and southern Vietnam, spicier condiments struggle to grow and this, plus a historically limited use of meat in cooking, resulted in a seafood rich diet, lending a salt and pepper sway to northern gastronomy. Cut your teeth on moreish fried crab rolls, tangy Bun ca (fish noodles) or smoky Bun cha (slow cooked pork in a salty broth).
As you start to head south it’s not just the temperature that rises. From the north’s mountain chill to the centre’s mountain-grown chillies, the air is balmy and the food is served with a kick. The vibrant and colourful fare produced here is said to reflect the region’s royal heritage. The Imperial City of Hue would have seen rich, exotic feasts bursting with heat and aromatic spices. Try the Hoi An specialty of sensational spiced fried wontons, or the vibrantly turmeric-yellow Banh Khoai (Hue Pancake).
Central Vietnam is sure to capture your heart as well as your stomach, Hoi An’s charming market-lined streets compete with its white sand beaches and the historical grace of Hue. A feast for culture vultures and market meanderers as well as serious food lovers.
Crank up the herbal heat and hit the streets on our Private Hoi An Street Food Tour with a Local.
With a propensity for palm sugar and coconut milk, southern cuisine is served with a saccharine smile. Having been settled more recently than its northern counterparts, the south was also more susceptible to newcomers’ persuasions. Instead of the traditionally scantly-stuffed baguettes of the north, southern bahn mi’s are brimming with myriad delights from pork slices to pickles. Plus the foodie scene in Ho Chi Minh City is one of the most inclusive you’ll find in the country, with an array of fascinating fusions.
The fertile soil of the south and the rich bounty of the Mekong Delta mean that the fresh fare found here is pretty remarkable. Head down to the Delta to discover it’s enchanting waterways as well as it’s gastronomic highlights such as coconut candy, crispy Bahn Xeo (pork & prawn stuffed pancakes) and delightfully sticky baked honeycomb cake.
Indulge in Ho Chi Minh’s sweet’n’savoury streets in style on an evening street food tour by vintage vespa.
As I scoffed down my 11th (or was it 12th??) Bahn Mi I began to realise that the quest was simply flawed. I’d trialled perfectly crusty-on-the-outside-fluffy-on-the-inside baguettes in every fantastical guise. Tested baguettes bulging with mint, coriander, and Madam Khahn’s secret chilli sauce. Appraised back-to-basics baguettes with luxurious chicken liver pate. Assessed airy baguettes laden with eggs, pickles and all the meaty trimmings.
I’d learned that every bready bite spoke of its local history, its arable offerings and its creators origins. To try and choose a winner was like trying to pick a favourite memory from what had been an unforgettable trip. But as they say – ‘nothing ventured, nothing gained’ (not least of all a couple of pounds…)
For more inspiration, take a look at our Vietnam Holidays pages.
Written by Rebecca Buttall
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